At an altitude of 1495 meters (4059 ft), Lukomir is the highest and most isolated village in Bosnia-Herzegovina. That’s why this place was the only one to escape the bloody civil war from 1992 to 1995. For the same reason, Lukomir is not (yet) overrun by tourists.

The village is located about 50 kilometers (30 miles) from Sarajevo. In winter the place is buried under a thick layer of snow, so it’s inaccessible even for the locals. The shepherd population lives there only during the summer months. According to the 2013 head count, there are only 13 of them left.

Getting to Lukomir is not that easy. It is recommended to drive a 4x4, because the last 10 kilometers (6 miles) is unpaved road, with steep slopes and potholes. We drove a VW van, and took the risk. We (and the car) got there in one piece, but we had to get out occasionally to assess whether we would continue or turn back.

The desolate landscapes on your way up, with bright green pastures surrounded by mountains make the trip definitely worth it.
The village of Lukomir is no more than a few simple brick houses with corrugated iron or wood roofs. It seems as if time has stood still here.

We reach Lukomir late in the afternoon when the last shepherd arrives in the village. The only sounds here come from nature: sheep, dogs and the rustling of the wind. The image of a man visiting a grave a short distance away is an even lonelier scene in such a vast landscape.

We feel a bit like intruders gawking at the locals with their ancient lifestyle. They keep to themselves, and we try to be respectful by not behaving as tourists in Disneyland. Medieval Disneyland, because ancient tombstones in Lukomir suggest that it was inhabited at least since the 14th century. Because of its cultural-historical landscape, the village and its surroundings are designated as National Monument.

In the middle of Lukomir is a guesthouse where we spent the night.